All posts by rbowen

Idi Amin

Heavyweight boxer, army general, canibal, mass murderer, and president for life of Uganda Idi Amin, the Butcher of Africa, died yesterday in Saudi Arabia. He came to power in 1971 in a military coup, overthrowing Milton Obote. He ruled Uganda until 1979, when another military coup kicked him out. During that time, he transformed Uganda from a wealthy and beautiful tourist resort nation, teeming with wildlife, industry, and commerce, into an impoverished hole, where no tourist would dare set foot, and no company would dare invest. He used to go out into the game reserves with a machine gun and shoot herds of rhinos, for fun. These days, it’s very difficult to guess that rhinos used to move in herds, since there are not enough of them left to make this possible. Idi Amin is almost single-handedly responsible for bringing that about. He was also responsible for the deaths of more than 500,000 people, many of whome he killed personally. He tortured many others, and thousands of people disappeared for years, and when they emerged, they were reluctant to talk about what had happened in that time. Idi Amin is one of the most wicked people to have lived in our life time.

Yet, somehow, Saudi Arabia, a God fearing nation, decided to keep him as an honored guest, paying him a stipend that allowed him to live in luxury until his death yesterday. Their reasoning, presumably, was that he converted to Islam. This apparently means that he should not be turned over to his countrymen for a trial by his peers, but should be treated like a foreign dignitary, and supported in luxury for more than 20 years.

His family continues to insist that none of what I’ve talked about ever happened. They claim that he was a peace-loving guy that was just deeply misunderstood, and that the media made up a bunch of stuff. Stuff like the heads and penises in his fridge, and the arms in his freezer. Stuff like chopping off peoples’ heads because they were taller than him. Stuff like being personally responsible for the Air France plane that was hijacked to Entebbe in 1976 (see the movie Raid on Entebbe for a fantastic portrayal of this event), and like executing journalists that dared to criticize him, and like throwing his political opponents to the crocodiles, and like deporting every citizen and resident of asian or indian origin. The Indians, like in many african nations even today, form the core of the economy, owning or managing many of the businesses. Expelling them destroyed the economy pretty fast.

After 1979, Uganda went through what we used to refer to as the “president of the month” phase, and I went to school with a few of president’s kids during those years. They seemed to remain rather friendly with one another while their fathers exiled one another. In particular, I seem to remember that we went to school with Lule’s and Okello’s kids. I guess their rules weren’t actually consecutive.

The current president, Yoweri Museveni, took power in a military coup also, in 1986, although he has been elected in moderately fair elections since that time.

With the last of the African strong men being kicked out of office (like Charles Taylor and Daniel Moi) and dying off (like Idi Amin and Bokasso), one is almost tempted to hope for a new era in Africa, when people can actually live in peace with one another. Of course, there are still lunatics like Robert Mugabe who are leading their people into a future of international alienation and poverty, but one hopes that he will not last forever.

There are good articles about Amin on CNN and BBC. There are also many many web sites about Idi Amin and people that survived his rule. Wikipedia has a pretty good treatment.

If you’re interested in Africa and how it got into the mess that it’s in, an excellent book on the subject is Things Fall Apart. There’s also a new book called The Zanzibar Chest, which tells the story from the perspective someone who grew up in Africa, as the son of a colonial soldiering family. This was recently reviewed on NPR and sounds very interesting.

Mt Kenya trip: Addendum

I just remembered another incident that adds a certain something to the tale of climbing Mt Kenya. It was on the way down the mountain. Seems I was missing a little detail.

The car trouble actually started on the way down. We managed to get a hole in the oil pan of one of the LandRovers – apparently a rock had bounced up from the road and punctured it.

As we were waiting for a decision on what happened next, a crowd of kids started to gather. We were on the road between Meru and the base camp, and this is a very rural area. Seems that we were quite an unusual sight in this area. So, we all put on our mirrored sunglasses (hey, it was 1986!) and, all at the same time, stuck our heads up out of the sunroof. The kids fled, screaming in terror.

Yep, that’s all there is to the story. Kinda silly. But one of those things that makes the trip stand out so vividly in my memory.

Mount Kenya

In 1986, I had the chance to climb mount kenya, an experience that left me with many indellible memories, although some of the details are slipping away over the years.

There were perhaps 12 of us, led by Mr (Anthony?) Leigh, who was our geography teacher at Nairobi Academy, who was determined to make the experience an educational one. I find that I’m unable to remember the names of everyone that was on that trip. I remember that Jupinder Mahajan, Andrea Donna, and Ajay Shah were on the trip, but I find that some of the other faces in the photos – which are hardly great – are unknown to me. Kinda sad.

The first night, we pitched our tents at the base camp. I had an ancient canvas army tent that had been loaned to me by Peter Johnston, a professor at the school my parents worked at. It weighed more than everything else I was carrying. Fortunately, someone decided to stay at the base camp, and I traded tents with them, for something a little more lightweight.

We had packed a variety of pre-prepared food, which was frozen and in baggies, for warming up later. We also had large amount of chocolate and dried fruit for energy. As we went higher, and the oxygen level dropped, making cooking harder, and making our appetites wane, we ended up eating mostly chocolate and dried fruit for two days. For years afterwards, I did not really like chocolate, and, even today, I can’t stand dried fruit of any description. Well, raisins are ok, but that’s about it.

The second night, we stayed at Mintos, a camp about half way up. The camp is a tarn – a lake formed by the receeding glacier. There are actually two lakes. The larger one has been used as a waypoint stopping area for the last 50 years, and as a latrine for much of that time, and is nasty, slime-covered, and smelly. The other lake, which is a little walk off of the main path, is almost untouched – or at least, was then. The water is crystal clear, and completely without life, because of the altitude, and cold, I guess. It was very cold, and crisp, and delicious, although probably very high in lots of minerals.

On the next morning, we left most of our gear at Mintos, and headed for the peak. One guy stayed behind, and I’ve often wondered if he has regretted that decision for the last 17 years. I know I would have.

Perhaps the most vivid memory of the whole climb happened early that morning. We came up to a saddle, after a hard rocky climb, with Andrea and I way out front which is what we always did on our climbs, and we stopped for a short rest. We were above the tree line, and the air was kind of thin. There were no birds, animals, or even insects, just a few scattered grasses. You can see where we rested in this picture. I had one of those rare flashes of insight, and when everyone got there, I asked them to be silent for a minute. And it was silent. I have never since that time experienced complete silence. There’s always some machinery, or something, making some noise in the background, which you can never get away from. But here, on a ridge on Mt. Kenya, it was silent. A truly rare thing in our time.

After that stop, the climb became rockier, and soon we were at the cabin at the bottom of the glacier. I’ve seen pictures since then, and the glacier has receeded even further now than then. That year, the glacier came almost down to the cabin. In the cabin are a few historical items from the early european explorers to the area, and some information about the mountain, including some photos from the first expeditions, so that you could see how far the glacier used to come.

From the cabin, you can look up to the peaks. Lenana is on the right, and Battion and Nellion, higher and rocker, on the left. I desperately wanted to climb the higher peaks, and I knew that I could make it, but we had no actual climbing gear, and of course Mr Leigh would not let me attempt it. Some day, I want to go back and do those peaks.

So we set out along the right edge of the glacier, towards Lenana. The last leg of the climb is very quick, and we had almost nothing to carry. In the early days, the climbers would have all their gear carried by porters, and so they would climb a lot faster, making them susceptible to pulmonary adema. There’s a lead cross on the peak with names etched into it of people that have died of adema on the way up. That’s a delightful condition where you gain altitude too quickly, and your lungs fill up with fluid.

We took a few pictures on the summit – mine didn’t turn out – and headed back to Mintos. And then the next day headed back down to the base camp. By this time we were hungry and exhausted, sick of chocolate and dried fruit, and tired of carrying all that weight around. When we got to the base camp, we decided to go ahead and drive out. One of the landrovers had broken down, so several of us climbed on the roof of the other one to go down to the Mt Kenya Safari Club. I actually fell asleep on the roof as we drove down the mountain, with various of the other guys making sure I didn’t roll off.

The Safari Club used to be an exclusive club inhabited by the “Happy Valley Set”. There are a number of books about them – the disillusioned rich brats from the US and Europe that went to Kenya to escape from reality, and morailty, for a while. Most of them came to unhappy ends, and the whole thing fell apart when there was a highly publicized murder at the club.

We stopped there for dinner, and then went back to Nairobi after the rest of our transportation arrived, arriving fairly late back at home. I remember dropping my pack at the door, and going straight to bed, where I slept all night and most of the next day. My parents had actually been away in the US, and had returned while I was on the mountain, so I had left from a friend’s house, where I was staying, and returned to my house at the end of the trip. We still had a number of the pre-prepared meals, which were no longer worth keeping.

Stuff

Having long wondered exactly where Stuff was located, yesterday I was pleased to discover that it is located, exactly, at N38°01.714, W84°16.722, and at 1036ft elevation.

In case you care, Stuff is a military surplus store, and they reportedly are a great place to get ammo cans for geocaching. However, they were closed when I got there, so I don’t know.

Order my book

My book is available on Amazon.com. This is kinda funny, since I’m still writing it. What’s even funnier is that they have an exact page count. So if I add a bunch of content, will the page count change?

Scanner

Having finally given up on getting a decent scanner working under Linux (yeah, I know. Blah, blah, blah. Flames will be gleefully /dev/null’ed) I got a Canon scanner, which I’m usng on my Win98 machine.

The thing that struck me as really cool about this scanner is that it has no power supply. It is entirely powered by the USB port. Not being much of a hardware person, I guess I was unaware that this was possible.

Anyways, using it for my wine labels

Rebooting phone

For the last 3 or 4 weeks, my phone has been randomly rebooting, or turning off. This has caused me to miss a number of important phone calls, and be cut off in the middle of others.

So I went to the Sprint shop yesterday (or perhaps Wednesday, I’m not sure) and complained. The lovely assistant there took my phone apart, cleaned out an enormous quantity of crud which had somehow made its way into the battery compartment, and handed it back to me. It has worked just fine since then.

In other news, Dana wondered, last night, why this blogging thing is so popular, and why anyone on earth would give a rodent’s posterior about my pocket lint.

Why indeed? And yet, here you are, reading about it.

The Internet will never cease to amaze me.

Geocaching accident

On the way back from a birthday party on Saturday, I was rear-ended. They messed up my bumper, and tore my tire cover.

Getting out of the Blazer, they mentioned that I was the first geocacher that they had met in person since they started geocaching. They knew from my bumper stickers which they had just smushed. They were admiring the stickers when they ran into me.

So I invited them to a geocaching party that evening.

I’m pretty sure this is the first time I’ve invited someone to a party after they have crashed into me. I somehow guess this is rather uncommon.